10g of dye powder with 10 tablespoons of white vinegar will dye 1kg of wool to full shade. For smaller quantities one level teaspoon of dye powder with two tablespoons of white vinegar will dye 200 gms of wool. For a lighter colour add less dye powder.

You will need

1 Dyepot which can be heated, 1 good stirrer, rubber gloves and white vinegar

Simple Dyeing Recipe

1. In a sink or basin thoroughly "wet" wool soaking it in warm water containing 1/4 teaspoon of dish wash detergent for 20 minutes.
2. Fill dyepot with water. The level of water should be enough to cover article to be dyed and allow circulation.
3. Mix the dye powder to a paste in a small container with a little cold water. Then add sufficient warm water to dissolve it. Add this dye concentrate to the water in the dye pot.
4. Add two tablespoons of white vinegar to the dyepot for every 200 gms of wool and stir.
5. Add the wool to the liquid in the dyepot. Turn gently so the wool soaks up dye evenly.
6. Slowly raise the temperature of the dyepot liquid to boiling point. Turn the wool gently from time to time to avoid uneven color.
7. Simmer for 30-40 minutes.
8. If dye liquid remains highly coloured, add a little extra white vinegar five minutes before the end of dyeing.
9. Allow the dyebath to cool before handling.
10. Remove the wool from the dyebath.
    Rinse in warm water.
    Rinse in cool water and dry.

Notes:

When dyeing coloured wool or fabric results will be different from colour chart. Before you throw away the dyebath liquid add 1-2 teaspoons of baking soda to the liquid to neutralize the acid in the water, it is nicer to the environment.

The Ashford Book Of Dyeing is packed full of information on different methods and ideas of all kinds. Chapter Three will teach you more about how to use chemical dyes.

For Your Safety

1. Keep containers tightly closed and out of children's reach.
2. Wear gloves.
3. Wear a dust mask when handling dry dye powder.
4. Keep dye pots and utensils for dyeing only.
5. Avoid breathing fumes.

This is an exciting way to apply the dyes directly to the yarn. Using a pastry brush we can paint original colour combinations onto the hank of yarn.

You Will Need

• Rubber or plastic gloves
• Apron
• Tea Spoons (3)
• Sticks for stirring (4)
• Jar (500 ml)
• Sealed Container (500 ml) (3)
• Small container (3)
• Measuring cup
• Old towel (dry)
• Pastry brush (3)
• Kitchen wrap
• Dish washing liquid
• White vinegar
• Methylated spirits (rubbing alcohol)
• Urea (150g in the kit)
• Polycell Paste (1 1/2 Teaspoon in the kit)

Facts - The dye powder is dissolved in the water. We need to thicken this liquid to a consistency that will flow onto the yarn without running. The thickening medium is called a Padding Mixture.

Steps

1. The Dye Solution (3 colours) - Put 2g packs dye powder in each jay - add a little cold water to dissolve the granules - then 500ml warm water to dissolve the granules - stir well.
2. Padding Mixture (500 ml) - Place the 150g urea in the jar - pour on 250ml boiling water - stir well until dissolved - add cold water to make 500ml. Add 1 teaspoon of methylated spirits (rubbing alcohol) - sprinkle 1 1/2 teaspoons of polycell paste into the mixture stirring vigorously. Add 2 drops dish washing liquid - add 1 tablespoon of white vinegar. Leave 30 minutes. Seal until needed. Using sieve: If there are lumps in the mixture put the mixture through a sieve.
3. Soak the Hank of Yarn in Warm Water - with 2 drops of dish washing liquid.
4. Add Dye to Padding Mixture - Pour about 50ml of padding mixture into a container, add 1~2 teaspoons of dye solution. Less dye for pale shades.
5. Now Everything is Ready - PAINTING TIME! Towel dry the hank of yarn. Lie the yarn on the kitchen wrap. Paint your design on the yarn. Fold the kitchen wrap over the yarn. Try to seal it to exclude air.
6. To Set the Dye - Some form of heat is necessary. Take your dyed hank home. Place it in a sunny room on a window sill, in a hot water cupboard, or sleep on it under your sheet on your water bed. Takes approximately 24-48 hours. Hint: Winter-Time Oven Method: Slit open an oven bag, paint the yarn fold the bag to seal. Place in oven 1/2 hour at 100 degrees C.
7. Washing - Soak hank in cold water for 10 minutes. Wash the hank gently 2 or 3 times in warm water and detergent. Rinse in warm water. Dry in a shady place.

For your safety: Wear rubber or plastic gloves. Use dye equipment for dyeing only. Label all dyes and solutions and lock away if possible. Cover all surfaces.

Click Here to Purchase Dyes and Dying Supplies Online

1. Pull the wool fibers apart so they have spaces between them. Add an additional layer with the fibers running in the opposite direction.
2. Wrap wool strip loosely around your favorite bar of soap, covering the whole bar and make sure the ends overlap.
3. You can now add additional colours over your layers of wool around the soap.
4. Hold onto the bar of soap and wet it in a bowl of warm water. Remove from the bowl of water, and squeeze out some of the water from the wool.
5. Begin rubbing the wool around the soap in your hands, the wool will get all lathered up.
6. Remember to rub all side of the bar of soap. To help, you can also use a carpet runner with grooves in it, felting board or a wash board (or any other bumpy surface) for rubbing; kids like the "whooba whooba" sound.
7. Add water as needed and continue rubbing the wool until you cannot pull the fibers apart.
8. When completely felted, rinse the bar of soap in cold water.

Congratulations! You now have your own felted bar of soap! You can use it in the shower or bath, and it can take place of your washcloth.

Once your bar of soap has melted with use; you can plant the discarded felted wool in your garden. The roses love the wool, and will thank you by making more flowers!

Hint: If the bar of soap is too big to felt in your hand, microwave it for about 20 seconds and repeat if necessary, then cut the soap into smaller peices. This is a great thing to do for little hands.

In our picture we used Perendale sliver, but if you are impatient Merino and Polwarth felts faster.

1. Wrap wool strip loosely around your wrist, making sure the ends overlap.
2. Remove wool circle from your wrist and set it aside. Wet your hands in hot water and rub them with a bar of soap until your hands are soapy.
3. Lightly dampen the wool circle with soap and water from your hands, work the soap into the wool until the wool fibres stick together.
4. When the circle of wool is totally wet and soapy, insert one palm inside the circle and the other outside and quickly rub your hands back and forth.
5. Keep rubbing all areas of the circle hard and fast, blot off excess soap onto a clean towel. If the wool dries out, add more hot water and soap to your hands. Soon the wool will become hard and felt together.
6. Once the wool becomes hard, dampen the bracelet and crumple it into a ball and roll it between your palms. It will become smaller as you roll it. Check the size as you go.
7. When your bracelet reaches the right size, rinse out the soap with water and your bracelet is ready to wear.
8. Your bracelet will continue to shrink every time it gets wet. When it becomes too tight, be sure to cut it off and make a wish and hope that your wish comes true!

THE STORY OF FELT

Legend has it that felt was discovered by a monk who, having lined his sandals with wool to keep his feet more comfortable, noticed that after he walked on the material for a while, and got it wet in rain and creek water, that the wool fibres bonded together to form a material which could be used for making different pieces of clothing or other items like bags and even hats.

Today, monks and everyone else can find the best selection of fibres for felting in different colors here at Birkeland Bros.

Click Here to Purchase Wool Sliver Online

1. Wheel:

• Spin the wheel. It should rotate freely for 20 plus revolutions on nylon bearings and 100 plus on ball bearings. The ball bearings on an Ashford wheel from 2008 onward are sealed for life and do not need any lubrication.


• If necessary: Prise the wheel supports apart and let the oil drop onto the crank between the hub and the bearings.


• Con rod (pitman) bearing. Apply a drop of oil.


• Treadle hinge pins on double treadle wheels. Apply a drop of oil to each hinge.
  
• If the wheel appears to be pinched between the wheel supports, loosen the bolts or screws that are holding the frame. Then spin the wheel untit it is free and then gradually retighten the bolts and screws.


• On the Ashford Traveller this can be altered by loosening the 2 bolts holding the wheel supports and moving them until correct.


• Check the con rod (pitman) bearing to ensure it isn't binding as it rotates.


• Check that the gap between the bottom of the con rod (pitman) and the treadle rail is between 1/2 to 3/4 inches (10 to 18 mm). If greater than this it can cause you ankle strain and if close the two can bind, thus stretching the joint. If necessary, replace the joint.

2. Flyer:

• Spin the flyer. It should rotate freely.


• If necessary: Check and lubricate the flyer bearings.


• Ensure the flyer bearings are at right angles to the flyer shaft. It not loosen the screws holding the maid upright and realign. Then retighten the screws.


• Check there is approximately 1/8" (2 to 3 mm) end float between the flyer, bobbin and flyer bearings.


• If the wheel has been factory finished, check there isn't any lacquer on the spindle or bobbin bearings.


• Check the alignment of the wheel and the flyer whorl. If necessary, loosen the screws holding the maiden bar, realign and tighten.


• If the drive band is worn, replace with a medium soft cotton cord, or a polycord from Ashford.

3. Bobbin

• Spin the bobbin. It should rotate freely.


• If necessary: Lubricate the bobbin bearings with a drop of oil.


• Ream the bearings with 1/4" (6.25 mm) round fine chain saw or fine sandpaper wrapped around a pencil.


• Check there is sufficent clearance between the bobbin and flyer.


• On double drive wheels the flyer whorls have "V" grooves. The bobbin whorl is smaller and "U" shaped. This difference enables the wheel to drive the flyer at a constant speed and allows the bobbin to accelerate or slow down when drafting. Check the bobbin whorl is smooth and "U" shaped.

• Microwaveable glass casserole dish
• 100 gram skein of wool or a mix with other animal fibers
• 4 packages of non-sweetened Kool-Aid or store brand drink mix (try different colours)
• Warm water
• Liquid dish soap
• Microwave

1. Saturate wool in water mix with a few drops of the liquid dish soap for 1 to 2 hours.
2. Squeeze wool to make sure it has absorbed the water.
3. Pour off most of the excess water - let the wool sit in a small pool of water.
4. Sprinkle powders randomly onto the wool, turning it over to the other side.
5. "Cook" in the Microwave for 2 minutes on high, and then let stand "cool" for 5 minutes.
6. Repeat alternating "cooking" time and "cooling" time until water is clear.
Wool and dish will be very hot. Handle carefully when removing from microwave.
7. Have the sink filled with warm water and pour contents of dish into sink water.
8. When thouroughly rinsed, squeeze out excess water and place into washing machine and spin to dry. Otherwise, roll up in towels and step on it to remove water.
9. Hang to dry.

1. Start by pulling the fleece apart in chunks, and remove the larger chunks of dirt.
2. Fill up a tub of soft, yes soft, water, as hot as your hands can take. Recommend using a kids' wading pool - outside. The kids can help you by walking through the wool, and they will have fun! I know this by personal experience!
3. Submerse the wool in the water.
4. To wash try Wisk liquid soap (as per UBC study).
5. To scrub, use a plunger and plunge the wool. Do not rub or ring the wool together, as it will felt!
6. Wool must be washed two or three times depending on how dirty it is.
Throw the water on the plants (roses love the lanolin) - not down the sink as the fibers and the lanolin will eventually clog your drains!
7. Wool must by rinsed in clear, soft (yes, soft) water with the plunger two or three times.
8. Air dry. This is best done in the summer and dried on the clothes line or thrown on the grass.
9. A glass of something cold always helps the process along :)

Do not use washers or dryers, as this will matt and ruin the wool.

Happy washing!

Click Here to Purchase Washed Wool Fleece Online